Beyond the Whitewash
Yesterday, I caught the biggest wave of my life.
I am a novice surfer. I first picked up a surfboard at 52, and yesterday seven days shy of my 56th birthday, I was out in the water catching the lovely, reliable little broken white wash. But then, I suddenly turned my eyes toward the horizon where the real surfers play– and gave myself a two-word command: "Be brave."
I pointed my board south and paddled for my life just to get out the back. It was a lung-burning, arm-killing effort simply to reach the line-up. The surfers already out there might have smiled (I wouldn't know; I'm also blind as a bat), but they certainly didn't suggest I shouldn't be there.
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